 Bocca Di Lupo Since its arrival on our shores in the 1950s the obligatory lasgane, Chianti and candle light that was Italian dining has passed through a number of evolutions. Food writer and Masterchef finalist William Leigh uses his tastebuds to explore the current trend for regional Italian cooking.
Bocca di Lupo
The latest addition to London's Italian line-up, this Soho regional Italian restaurant delivers in spades. Keeping with current trends, dishes are offered in two sizes, small and large. Handily, too, the menu lists ingredients by region, offering a distinct nod towards authenticity. Head chef Jacob Kenedy scoured the length and breadth of Italy in a quest to find undiscovered Italian gems – and what a job he's done. A starter of tuna tartare was a culinary triumph, while the unctuous, meaty cotechino sausage served with balsmic-rich lentils had us crying out for more. 12 Archer Street Soho W1D 7BB +44 (0) 20 7734 2223 www.boccadilupo.com
L'Anima
L'Anima is a sleek, upmarket eatery located on the borders of London's fashionable Shoreditch. Head chef Francesco Mazzei serves a pan-Italian menu with a Southern slant, featuring produce from Sicily, Apulia, Sardinia and his native Calabria. As one would imagine pasta features quite heavily on the menu – although the stand-out dish must be the tagliata, a show-stopper if ever there was one. A single marrowbone is served upright, stuffed with mashed potato with a slice of beef draped over the top to look like a large funghi porcini. This rather sums up the cooking here – playful, decadent and delicious. Deserts are worth saving room for.
1 Snowden Street
Broadgate West
London
EC2A 2DQ
+44 (0) 207 422 7000
Apsley's at the Lanesborough
Given the very British nature of this hotel, you might be surprised to find the kitchen serving up Italian regional fare. Cooking here is bold – punchy, almost hammy smoked tuna is paired with fennel, dill and orange in a robust starter and gamey pigeon ravioli are served with a Barolo, pancetta and thyme. Desserts marginally let the side down – lacking the lightness of touch showcased in starters and mains. The room also lacks the charm of the cooking.
The Lanesborough Hotel
Hyde Park Corner
London
SW1X 7TA
+44 (0)20 7259 5599
Alloro
It speaks volumes about this restaurant that the bar is often filled with well over a dozen extra covers when the restaurant is full. This is one of London's best destination for high-end Italian dining. Raviolis make their presence felt with deliciously rich version stuffed with ricotta and Swiss chard or succulent shreds of slow-cooked rabbit. As one might hope from a restaurant that prides itself on authenticity, a heavenly tiramisu hit all the right notes and is not to be missed.
19-20 Dover Street
Mayfair
W1S 4LU
+44 (0) 20 7495 4768
Dishes are not by the book Italian at this Westminster eatery, often packed to the rafters with MPs on their expense accounts. The excellent bread flows throughout the meal while some of the unusual dishes such as deep-fried eggs in tomato broth are a surprise treat. Good ingredients are handled with respect here – a main of poached duck breast was turned into four meaty towers topped with crunchy, duck scratchings. Worth leaving room for are the carefully selected cheeses which warrant their own page on this promising restaurant's menu.
61 Marsham Street
Westminster
SW1P 3DR
+44 (0) 20 3268 1077
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