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Copenhagen: Beer and Cake In the Danish Capital

Copenhagen: Beer and Cake In the Danish Capital
Martin Guttridge-Hewitt: Sitting amongst green leaves, warm furs and simple woods, our food journey begins with a cheese, beer and ham profiterole.
Copenhagen is one of Europe’s most curious capital cities. Save for the notorious cost of living here, it’s hard to know what to expect. That’s the thought running through my mind as I walk out into the sunny streets around Norreport station, one of the main transport hubs in the downtown area.
At the station entrance there lies a trio of market halls and lingering for an hour or so to sample seafood, schnapps and cheese is an absolute must.
One of the most notable stalls here is the Unika stand. It is the result of a ten year collaboration with some of the country’s best chefs, and the artisan produce is to die for. Crafted to take into consideration the natural flora and fauna of this region, the promise is there will always be ten to 15 different types of cheeses available to try and buy from the brand’s only public retailer.
But clearly a nation legendary for its palette pleasing delights doesn’t earn its reputation based on churned milk alone (not that we’d complain if it did). This New Nordic Cuisine Movement places emphasis on seasonal, local and fresh, and it’s an ethos that pervades almost every cafe, restaurant and bar we make our way through the streets.
The micro brewing revolution hasn’t happened in Copenhagen so much as it was catalyzed here. Norrebro - this city’s equivalent to East London’s hipster enclaves has its own brew house, logically named Norrebro Bryghus, and produces a vast range of beers. I  recommend the Ravnsborg Red and Forars Bock- both exceptional tipples.
This business is not alone in its desire to distract us from the Carlsberg and Tuborg pumps, mind. Mikkeller is arguably the daddy of brewing houses, and merely stepping in the door of its tiny bar just off the main Vesterbrogade drag is enough to make you realise where countless British establishments found inspiration for their own interiors.
White washed walls and pine fixtures create a welcoming space around a serving area resplendent in some 20-plus unmarked taps set against a slick black-tiled background. It takes some getting through even just a handful of the blends being poured, some of which are trappist-strength, accentuating how easy it would be to get carried away, or wind up being carried home.  
Enough to make you crave something for the stomach and Copenhagen’s diet definitely caters for those looking to soak up a few pint’s worth, and few places serve this purpose better than Aamanns Deli & Takeaway.
Fittingly, the smorrebrod here (open sandwiches to English speaking folk) are made from a range of breads. I select three including pickled herring with beetroot, mackerel and fish roe, and beef and horseradish, making for quite the micro-feast.
Hot dogs in this town aren’t meant for tourists. In Denmark people love sausages in buns and there are more than enough to ensure you can always grab a quick bite. Don’t be fooled by imitators, though, DOP, a small cart that sits beneath the iconic Round Tower on Kobmagergade, deep in the capital’s historic heart, is the finest of the lot, and stands as the only all-organic offering in the city.
Nimb, one of the city’s most exclusive hotels which also runs its Terrasse bar and restaurant. The Saturday afternoon cake binge is a favourite with locals and I decide to join in. A glass of Nitus Brut Reserve Cava is accompanied by fresh rhubarb served on a bed of chocolate soil, macaroons described by at least one of us as the best we’ve ever tried, and miniature lemon meringue pies that taste zestier than an afternoon spent juicing citrus fruit straight from the tree.
My final calling point is fast becoming one of Copenhagen’s most talked about eateries, with a foreign camera crew filming in the dining room as we arrive. Höst, on Norre Farimagsgade, is a member of the esteemed Cofoco family of eateries, and boasts an au naturel interior design ethic befitting its menu. Sitting amongst green leaves, warm furs and simple woods, our journey begins with profiteroles of cheese, beer, ham and mayonnaise; before dishes arrive including tartar of veal topped with Norwegian lobster tail and onion ash; veal brisket, yellow peas and mustard lettuce; and finally beetroot ice cream accompanied by blueberry puree.
Each course seems better conceived than the last, confirming Copenhagen’s status as possibly the most innovative city for food in Europe. My next trip won’t be too far away.
The Copenhagen Card offers free public transport and access to many of the city’s leading attractions as well as discounted dining at many restaurants in the Danish capital. For details go to:

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23 July 2014
By: Martin Guttridge-Hewitt
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