Kaya, just off London’s Piccadilly, is at the forefront of a surge in interest in the capital’s Korean restaurant scene. Anna Maria Espsäter checked it out.
Kaya is a happy slice of Korea just off London’s Piccadilly, run by the notable Suh brothers, and currently heading up the hit parade as Korean food gains popularity in the UK.
The light, airy restaurant, with traditional décor and displays of Korean artefacts, manages to fit in Hanok-style roofing along one of its interior walls, helping to enhance the atmosphere greatly, whilst attentive staff wear traditional costumes and serve delightfully authentic dishes created by head chef and Seoul native Mr Suh.
“It was difficult to stand out at first,“ Mr Daniel Suh tells me, “ But Korean food is quite different. Chinese cooking uses a lot of oil and they fry most of their food. Koreans use fermented food and we sauté most of our dishes without too much oil. Our diet is very varied. We use lots of different vegetables, meats and fish.” And as if to prove this point an abundance of dishes starts to arrive at my table. Koreans are very big on side dishes; they call them banchan, and often an entire meal can be based around these tasty nibbles.
A refreshing crispy salad with soy sauce starts off my feast, followed by a thick, rich, sweet pumpkin soup – its custard-like texture perhaps a tad too heavy for a starter. But things improve considerably when the banchan arrives. Korea’s national dish, kimchi, takes pride of place, and includes the famous cabbage kimchi, as well as cucumber and radish. These sharp, crunchy chilli-pickled vegetables are an acquired taste, but once acquired they prove a hard habit to ever sate. Bean sprouts, spinach, radish, salted squid and wafer-thin squares of crispy seaweed complete the extensive table of appetizers; and I have to fight the temptation to stuff myself into insanity.
To whet the appetite some more, I tuck into an elegantly presented seafood salad in mustard sauce, which should really come with a warning sign; the overpowering mustard felt as if it would literally blow my head off as my eyes began to stream with water. To take the edge off, soft and slinky brown noodles with salty, sesame beef prove a perfect antidote, and after this brief wobble my faith is speedily restored.
Determined to try most of the specialities I move on to delicious sautéed meats, fish and vegetables in batter and a spring onion pancake, another signature dish, that comes complete with soy dipping sauce. And if this wasn’t enough, it’s time, at long last, for the jewel in Korea’s crown – the bulgogi. Perhaps the country’s most famous dish, bulgogi is marinated, barbequed meat, served with red hot chilli pepper paste, salad and a dipping sauce, all wrapped in a lettuce leaf and eaten like a taco, often with rice on the side and washed down with seaweed broth. Copious amounts of barley tea are also on hand for the thirsty, or there’s the Korean beer, Hite, for those who wish to imbibe.
Desserts include a rice punch - sadly sans alcohol – and fresh fruit, and whilst the restaurant does excellent lunchtime specials and an á la carte menu, the truly commited are coming for the selection of Korea’s national tipple, soju. This potent rice spirit can easily lead to involuntary karaoke sessions, but it’s a risk I’m willing to take. I will be returning soon to satisfy my kimchi cravings; with or without the heady brews.
Kaya Restaurant, 42 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JH, Tel: 020 7499 0622/23 Open Mon-Sat 12.00-15.00 and 18.00-23.30, Sun 18.00-23.30. www.kayarestaurant.co.uk www.koreafoods.co.uk.