Strutting your stuff on the lanes or in the luncheonette never looked so chic. American expat Steve Willliams orders a rootbeer and works on his pendulum swing.
Bowling alleys in America are places where all walks of life gather to hurl a leaden-plastic ball at some pretty pins down a wooden lane. But this isn’t like playing pins the way our parents did. All Star Lanes is an upgraded take on the all-American tradition of ten-pin bowling.
Styled in retro-Americana with modern nods, All Star lets you mix eating with some serious fun. The decor is "sophisticated alley", where motifs from the '60s and well-designed seating offer more than a hint of middle America. Whether you’re the lad with the date, the girl with her mates, or just Joe having some fries on a plate. Strutting your stuff on the lanes or in the booth never looked so chic.
At Brick Lane, the six smart lanes are neatly tucked away behind the restaurant with its own luxury bar and mixing area. Whether before or after, it’s all set up for you to wander back into the 'luncheonette' area for lunch, snacks, or dinner. The drinks menu offers a nice selection of fair-priced wines, beers and cocktails. One can easily imagine a great night out at the 'bar' areas, whether next to the lanes or the restaurant.
All Stars aims to bring American staples to the luncheonette format. It mostly succeeds. The "pulled pork & mango salad" was inspired, and the simple grilled chicken and fries were very good all round. However, the fried calamari suffered from a slight excess of oil, so go easy if you want to avoid another American tradition, the fat belly swagger. I found the root beer float a bit sickly-sweet, though I suspect that might have something to do with my age. Then again, the alcoholic shakes are an invention that Brits should export.
I've bowled at all three London locations; they're lively every night with a mixture of groups from business to friends to families. And the service is truly superb: from arrival you are guided to either your table or the lanes, depending on your preference. Every step is professionally served by polite, attractive and non-pushy employees dressed in traditional All Star shirts. This is service on a top-notch scale and each employee seems to make the place more fun. All Star could teach one or two top restaurants how to serve with style.
A piece of Americana in London
Foodtripper's favourite
Outsider Tart Shop and at London farmers' markets
Wholesome and home made. Cup cakes, cheesecakes and every other American style cake you could wish for.
Outsider Tart Shop
83 Chiswick High Road
W4 2EF
020 7096 1609
Automat
American brasserie for relaxed and stylish dining
33 Dover Street , Mayfair W1S 4NF
www.automat-london.com
Bodeans
Bebeque smokehouse offering a taste of the great American outdoors.
Across London
www.bodeansbbq.com
The Big Easy
The best of the Gulf Coast crabshacks
332 – 334 Kings Road, Chelsea, London SW3 5UR
www.bigeasy.uk.com
Rosslyn DelicatessenLoad up on Oreos, Hersheys, Graham crackers and more
56 Rosslyn Hill, Hampstead, NW3 1ND
www.rosslyndeli.net